Thursday, September 28, 2006

Hey Mr. Tambourine Man ....

Imagine being jarred out of a deliciously deep sleep. Imagine being jarred out of a deliciously deep sleep at 2:21 a.m.. Imagine being jarred out of a deliciously deep sleep by some moron banging a drum. Imagine being jarred out of a deliciously deep sleep by some moron banging a drum incessantly. Imagine being jarred out of a deliciously deep sleep by some moron banging a drum incessantly walking up and down the streets of your neighbourhood so that sometimes the sound begins to fade but then - oh! he's back! - it's louder than ever.

Now imagine that it happened to me, not you. You have probably ceased caring at this point and I wouldn't blame you save for the fact that it happened to me and I am nothing if not self-centred. Already deprived of sleep thanks to the plaintiff whinings of our neighbourhood muezzin (at 4:20 a.m.), hearing Mr. Tambourine Man banging his gong 2 full hours before I was (almost) prepared to be woken up was the last straw.

Oh - did I ask you to imagine being jarred out of a deliciously deep sleep by some moron banging a drum which also succeeded in waking up every dog in the neighbourhood? Bang bang bang. Woof woof woof. Oh sweet mother of god. Bang bang bang. Woof woof woof.

So why was Mr. Tambourine Man meandering through our neighbourhood effectively waking up the dead? - to rouse them to eat. Only a few hours left to chow down before sunrise. Get up! Eat! Eat! Eat! - which to me negates the spirit of Ramadan. Eating at sunset, eating throughout the night, and then getting up once or twice before dawn to put on the feedbag somehow diminishes the "sacrifice" of not eating for 12 hours during the day. In my mind, that's just reversing your inner clock. Maybe I'm a purist.

But one thing I am is getting the hell out of Dodge: one week in glorious Spain. Sangria, sun, sand, and - no less important - pubs bursting with people imbibing & consuming during daylight hours. No social vampires here. One less week of Ramadan and perhaps one week of uninterrupted sleep.

Adiós amigos ~ hasta luego!

p.s. Hey Mr. Tambourine Man ....#@%&($">* off!

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

A Moroccan Fairy Tale

Once upon a time, there was a beautiful young girl - we'll call her Cinderella - who was enslaved by her fiendish stepmother and stepsisters shortly after the death of her father. While she was forced to endure endless hours of arduous labour, these crones luxuriated on soft cushions passing the hours by concocting novel ways to humiliate the girl and new tasks to assign to her. One day it came to pass that the King and Queen of the land decided to hold a ball in the hopes of finding a suitable match for their son the Prince. ...

Hold on. Wrong story. Let's start again.

Once upon a time, there was a beautiful young Moroccan girl - we'll call her Lamia - who was enslaved by her fiendish aunt and uncle shortly after her parents had sent her to the U.S. to live with them. It had been decided that this most fortunate of daughters would receive the boon of all boons - an American education - in exchange for watching her young cousin and doing some light housework. In reality, she was forced to endure endless hours of arduous labour, which included working at her aunt and uncle's espresso stand, during which time our villains neglected to pay her a fair wage for her employment. Little did Lamia know that it was illegal in the United States for 12-year old girls to be thus spending their time but, when her visitor's visa expired, her uncle had threatened to have her deported and she had felt compelled to comply with his threats requests to work beyond her means.

One day it came to pass that Federal Prosecutors in the land discovered the nefarious activities of the aunt and uncle and opened an investigation. In no time at all, charges were filed against Uncle Abdenasser "Sammy" Ennassime and Aunt Tonya who eventually pleaded guilty to enslaving their niece. These fairy godmothers now anticipate that the pair will receive a sentence of six months' house arrest, three years of probation, and will also have to pay Lamia more than US $65,000 in back wages. That should buy Lamia a lot of frappuccinos.

Hopefully, Lamia will live happily ever after.

Sentencing is set for December 1st, 2006.

Wishing Sammy and Tonya a Ramadan karim (hope they choke on their harira).

Monday, September 25, 2006

TGIF*

So, just in case Muslims worldwide don't have something to feel offended about, we have this little nugget of news out of the U.S.:

A car commercial proclaiming a jihad on the U.S. auto market and offering "Fatwa Fridays" with free swords for the kids is offensive and should not be aired, Muslim leaders said on Sunday.

Offensive? - you think?

The radio advertisement for the Dennis Mitsubishi car dealership in Columbus, Ohio, has "a whole jihad theme," said Adnan Mirza, director of the Columbus office of the Council on American-Islamic Relations.

I hope they have a segment on burkas ... oh wait! They will!

"They are planning on launching a jihad on the automotive market and their representatives would be wearing burqas ..." Mirza said. "They mentioned the pope in there and also about giving rubber swords out to the kiddies - really just reprehensible-type comments."

This is all so tiresome. Why must we resort to name-calling and mudslinging? Can't we just play nicely? - maybe start small and try not to do something nasty for 2 days in a row. Then graduate to performing non-negative acts for a whole week. And if all goes well, try to do something nice for a day or two. Take it slowly, see how it goes. Honestly, I mourn for a species that is so goddamn stupid. Why we're not still dragging our knuckles on the ground and picking nits out of our fur is beyond me.

*thank God it's Fatwa Friday

A Muezzin Compels Me to Cheat

Dawn broke on Day 2 of Ramadan - actually it had yet to dawn, it was 4:21 a.m. - and Mr. Cat in Rabat & I were gently woken from our slumbers by the hyper-decibel eardrum-piercing strains of a muezzin urging all good Muslims in Rabat to haul their asses out of bed and pray. Being Ramadan, the volume of the speakers is adjusted from the normal "did I just hear something" range to a headache-inducing "omigod make it stop". Consequently, I (and most of my co-workers) are all tired and a tad cranky today. So because my brain resembles a jello fruit salad that has been run over repeatedly by a school bus, I am going to cheat a little. Cheating during Ramadan ... hee hee hee ... once an infidel, always an infidel.

At the behest of one of my readers, I am reproducing in its entirety a commentary by Rex Murphy from last week's Globe & Mail, Canada's national newspaper. I don't always agree with Rex and I don't always particularly like Rex, but I like to read Rex.

With no further ado, here's Rex....

Tolerance must flow two ways

It is not often that lectures on the finer points of theology and philosophy, delivered from so retired a venue as the University of Regensburg, turn the world, or at least a good part of it, on its ear. But it must be said as well that not every lecturer is the Bishop of Rome.


In Pope Benedict XIV's lecture, one that may be fairly characterized as both subtle and erudite, we have a talk whose explosiveness was almost entirely determined by a few words in it, and the fact it was the Pope who gave it.


Most of the Pope's address was a nuanced exploration of the relations between reason and faith. A good sense of the tone and nature of his talk, which is readily available in full on the Internet, may be taken from this sentence, which contains, as I see it, its central thesis: "Is the conviction that acting unreasonably contradicts God's nature merely a Greek idea, or is it always and intrinsically true?"
Hardly a red-flag item, even for the most excitable bull.


It was a few words of that address, which were cited by His Holiness to assist in the illustration of an elegant argument, a quotation from a 14th-century Byzantine emperor, that ignited, or at least has been the occasion for igniting, a great storm across parts of the Muslim world. The quotation and the words leading to it are these: ". . . he addresses his interlocutor with a startling brusqueness, a brusqueness which leaves us astounded, on the central question about the relationship between religion and violence in general, saying: 'Show me just what Mohammed brought that was new, and there you will find things only evil and inhuman, such as his command to spread by the sword the faith he preached."


That one-sentence quotation of an ancient emperor, from an otherwise quiescent address, has set off a fury of anger and outrage. Churches were attacked in the West Bank, there have been demonstrations, and the Pope reviled as another Hitler or Mussolini.


Pope Benedict has invited Muslim envoys for talks, and has twice expressed his regret for the reaction to his lecture, but -- and this is not the same thing -- he has not apologized for his talk. Nor should he.
The fury in the Muslim world following the Pope's talk seems similar in two respects to the greater fury that followed the publication of those now famous Danish cartoons. The first similarity is that the volume and spread of outraged response gives every evidence of having been mobilized or concerted. That there is here, in other words, a "determination" to display outrage, less as evidence of profoundly wounded religious sensibility, than as political leverage against the West.


Not that I question some Muslims may well have taken deep offence in both instances, but that the offence taken has been magnified, and perhaps manipulated, for secondary motives.


The second point uniting these episodes, the point that I think the more consequential, is the expectation from some Muslim authorities that their sensibilities and beliefs are owed, as of right, a singular respect and immunity from all negative comment and remark. It is more than curious that those who don't believe in Islam should be expected to uphold the same codes of respect as those who do.


There attends this expectation, sometimes phrased as a demand, a further one: that should "offence" be taken, then whatever violence should ensue -- be it rioting, the burning of churches, or death threats -- must be laid at the door of the parties who "insult" Islam, not those who undertake violence in response.


These considerations are troubling. First, because the respect and privilege claimed by some Muslims is not afforded religions other than their own in their societies. There is a magnificent mosque in Rome close to the Vatican. Do I need to say there is no basilica in Mecca? One religion should not claim rights it will not afford to all others. In too many Muslim countries, Christianity is institutionally -- and this is a kind word -- disadvantaged.


Secondly, the rhetorical violence visited on Christianity and Judaism ("apes," "pigs," "crusaders," "infidels") by various Muslim spokespeople is both fervid and frequent, and in some of its expression, utterly eclipses in its ferocity and deliberateness either the bywords of the Pope here, or the famous cartoons.


Tolerance, like its elder, respect, is very much an equal current that flows between two parties. I cannot see how burning churches -- as happened in the West Bank -- or crude attacks upon, and threats against, the Pope, provide a foundation to calls for "greater sensitivity toward Islam."


There are precious things in the West, too, two of which are freedom of speech and critical analysis. Storms of outrage, and almost predictable violence after every perceived slight, leaves me feeling that the cardinal values of the West will wait a long time for a portion of that respect that parts of the Muslim world insist upon, immediately and in full, as their due.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

A Bogus Buddhist is Bereft of Her Books

As I approach my first anniversary here in Morocco (I'd crack open the champagne but it'll be during Ramadan & I wouldn't want to offend ...), I congratulate myself for surviving the year without the company of my 2 mainstays: my husband (who arrives tomorrow - for good), and my books.

I hope everyone noted that I mentioned my husband first. That was awfully nice of me, wasn't it?

But I do have a lot of books. I don't hoard them - I lend them out, let them circulate, allow them some fresh air, and then apologise profusely to them when they return
invariably far worse for the wear - but since I read a lot, I have a lot. It is - or should be - a law of physics that what you buy things and don't consume them, stuff piles up through no fault of the individual. And what book am I hankering for now: Lebanese novelist & journalist Amin Maalouf's The Crusades Through Arab Eyes, probably the best and refreshing scholarly revisiting of the crusades in print. I wish I had it in hand because I would respond to the whole PopeGate debacle with such eye-raisingly salient points (Maalouf's) and profound insights (Maalouf's), that you would all think me awfully clever. But I don't, so there.

So yes, when I first heard Pope Benedict's rather spine-shuddering comments about Islam, my first thought was what a nob (I calmly await my excommunication). Even if his comments or rather those of his mental & theological contemporary, the 14th century emperor Theodore Khoury - assuming that one can decipher them - are in the least way accurate, why would he give voice to them? I could've understood it if our Bishop of Rome, the Vicar of Christ had wheeled around, redfaced, and said to his cardinal-cohorts, "Omigod, did I just say that? Out loud?" His cardinal-cohorts would then reply, "Yes your Holiness, it would appear that you did." That I'd get. But did it never occur to the Pontiff that employing words like "evil, inhuman and violent" to describe Islam might be inflammatory? Might offend? Apparently not. Infallible but not omniscient. And not very swift.

But Malouf's book wouldn't be the only one I'd reach for. Not only would there be my books on the Crusades, but there would also be (
in no particular order) my books on the burning of the Library at Alexandria, the Gnostic et al. persecutions, the Church's deep-rooted anti-semitism & rousing attempts at Jewish genocide throughout Europe, the religious genocide of the Cathars and other Catholic "heresies"(ironically from the Greek hairesis or "choice"), the Inquisitions, their bloody dealings with the Huguenots and other Protestant groups, the Index Librorum Prohibitorum (the List of Prohibited Books" whose inductees have included the likes of Galileo, Swift, Hugo and Sartre), the Vatican's dubious scorecard during WWII, "the Troubles" in Northern Ireland, systemic sexual abuse against children, Papal bastard children, Renaissance poisonings & power struggles ... should I continue?

Taking a closer look at Vatican City, I now realise that its walls and bricks are made of glass.

Last year (my thoughts are drifting back to my aforementioned anniversary), I was filling out my application for a residency card here, I was angered at having to declare my religion. I stared at that taunting line and considered my options. A baptised papist, I ran walked away from Catholicism around the same time I left the Catholic High School I had attended (coincidence?). A priest might consider me lapsed ("one baptism for the forgiveness of sins", blah blah blah), but I consider myself cheerfully emancipated. So what to write? I had once entered "atheist" on a similar document in Egypt and quickly learned to regret it, so I opted for Buddhist. Buddhism is mainstream enough to be a recognizable faith to the Moroccan bureaucrat/lackey who'd approve or disapprove my application, while being gentle and nonviolent and, hopefully, inoffensive to assuage my sensibilities. I've never heard the Dalai Lama make any disparaging remarks about Muslims or anyone for the matter - not even the People's Republic of China who has branded him a "terrorist". But I'd like to apologise to Buddhists everywhere. As a Canadian, it irks me when non-Canadians abroad claim to be Canucks to avoid any retaliation (perceived or real) that they may receive from others. But do I really want to be associated with the likes of Emperor Theodosius who, a few centuries before the advent of Islam, declared:

We command that those persons who follow this rule shall embrace t
he name of Catholic Christians. The rest, however, whom We adjudge demented and insane, shall sustain the infamy of heretical dogmas, their meeting places shall not receive the name of churches, and they shall be smitten first by divine vengeance and secondly by the retributions of Our own initiative, which We shall assume in accordance with the divine judgment

Not very Christian of him, was it?

(I calmly await my excommunication. It's always nice to receive something in the mail.)

In Cold Blood (Re-Screened & Revisited)

The story unfolds:

Moroccan security services announced Tuesday in Rabat the arrest of the alleged murderer of an Italian diplomat and his Belgian wife, who were found dead in their villa on Monday morning.

The 34-year-old suspect killer, Karim Zimach, was arrested aboard a car belonging to the European Union Commission in Rabat, MAP news agency reported. Police had found out that the car and other personal belongings were missing on the day of the crime.

Investigations revealed that the victims, Alessandro Messir Dulisianio, an official attached to the Commission's delegation in Rabat, and his Belgian wife Arianne Lagasse de Locht, were stabbed to death by the criminal who had entered the house for robbery.


Police said that Zimach admitted the double homicide.


Dulisianio, 33, had come to Morocco only three weeks ago with his wife and their four children. He was supposed to officially take up his new post on Monday.

“They had moved to that villa only two weeks ago. Nothing could have foretold such a massacre,” said a source from the EU Commission. The four children (a 9-year old boy, a 8-year old girl, and 4 year-old twins), who are still under the shock, are currently receiving psychological support. One of their father's colleagues is looking after them until their relatives take over. Dulisianio started working for the European Commission in 1991. Before coming to Morocco, he had served in Turkey since 2001.

Arrested driving the stolen car ....Cat in Rabat shakes her head incredulously. I guess that Darwin's 'Survival of the Fittest' theory makes no allowances for intelligence (or the lack thereof).

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

In Cold Blood (Re-Screened)

Some 47 years ago, on November 15th (which is, in fact, my birthday although I hadn't yet been born), an entire family in Holcomb, Kansas was executed by 2 paroled petty criminals searching for a (non-existent) safe of cash. The horrific slaying of the 4 members of the Clutter family gripped the nation, galvanized a community with fear, and inspired reporters and journalists - among whom was Truman Capote - to descend on the quiet farmlands of America's midwest to seek their story. In Cold Blood, the product of Capote's (and friend Harper Lee's) meticulous research, instant recall (self-tested at 94%), fruitful imagination and/or personal prejudices (you choose), was an instant success (he earned some $2 million in the first year alone); in fact, it was a runaway hit before it was even published. It is not an exaggeration to say that Capote was the most famous man in the world after the publication of his "nonfiction novel".

I am mindful of the murders for several reasons:

1) Anything that happens on one's birthday is noteworthy. November 15th - write it down. In conjunction with the Clutter murders, this auspicious day oversaw the election of Canada's first separatist government, and the dissolution of my brother's marriage - the latter event should by rights be fêted with champagne;
2) Although I haven't seen the film In Cold Blood in years, I just watched the film Capote for the second time;
3) I finished reading In Cold Blood a week or so ago, and more importantly;
4) The flags at the Italian Embassy (my backyard neighbour) are flying at half-mast.

Why are the flags at half-mast? Because two nights ago in Rabat, an individual (a suspect is now in custody) entered the middle-class neighbourhood home of Italian national A. Alessandro Messir Dulisianio and his wife La Gasse Delos Ariena, and killed them, sparing - fortunately - their four children. Little information has been disclosed about the double-murder, save that Mr. Dulisianio and Ms. Ariena worked at the Delegation of the European Union in Rabat. The victims' car and other personal effects are missing.

If you took the time to check the above link, you will have seen that it was a major waste of time: there is scant information given. Nor is there any information about the suspect or his arrest. But it's remarkable that the murder was given any press at all, given the tendency to keep this sort of thing hush-hush. To compensate for the lack of hard facts, there has been much chin-wagging about the brutal killings around Rabat's nonexistent watercoolers, with many a theory posited. Some suggest that it was inside job, or the result of chatty concierges. The family only moved to Rabat a fortnight before Pope Benedict started pontificating about Islam so, it has been conjectured, the presence of an Italian national and his family may have been a thorn in someone's side. Perhaps, like the Clutter murders, it was a robbery gone wrong, a desperate attempt to leave no witnesses. Was the theft of the car a red herring. Who knows?

The only thing that is certain is that, like the Holcomb murders in 1959, another victim of both crimes was trust. Trust in your neighbours, trust in your community, trust in the goodness of others.

But afterward the townspeople, theretofore sufficiently unfearful of each other to seldom trouble to lock their doors, found fantasy re-creating them [the gunshot blasts] over and over again - those sombre explosions that stimulated fires of mistrust in the glare of which many old neighbours viewed each other strangely, and as strangers.
(In Cold Blood)